Finished Project: Green and Gold Embroidered Underbust.

This is another variation on Jill Salens Victorian Underbust constructed from recycled green curtain fabrics lining and all!

After flatlining each panel I machine embroidered up the middle of each panel being careful to avoid sewing too close to the edges - leaving space for the seam allowance and boning channels.  I then fully constructed this corset using cable ties for boning and black satin bias binding to finish the raw edges.

The very last touch to this corset was to sew on the lace applique flowers to each machine embroidered 'stalk'.

Finished Project: The Aphrodite Gown

I have been a neglectful blogger but I have got lots of sewing done.  The Aphrodite Gown is finished, it was pretty quick to do, the zip was probably the most arduous task. Here is the result!

The original plan was to have red fabric roses decorating the empire line seam but when I finished all the construction it just didn't feel like the right thing to do.

View of the dress from the side/back. I love the effect of the red underdress coming through the white chiffon.
 


Drapeyness at the back......yummy!

Finished Project: Blue Striped Underbust Corset

I loved making my little underbust corset and I thought it would be a a great canvas for trying out new ideas.  

 This is the first, made from two shades of blue dupion cut in alternating panels to create a striped effect.

I used steel to bone this and actually I think I prefer cable ties.  My pale blue and gold underbust gives slightly better waist shaping!  Maybe it has something to do with the flexibility of the cable ties?

For my next version of this corset I'm planning on incorporating some embroidery.

Aphrodite Gown -Bodice Progress

The fiddliest bit of this project is the bodice draping.  I think I spent around 2-3 hours pinning, adjusting, repinning and readjusting on the stand, trying to get the fabric to fall just right.  Once I was happy with it I tacked it all firmly in place.

The bodice front with a drapey cowl, crossover thing going on.  You can also see the skirts are pleated up and taking shape, they will also have a pleated chiffon overlay.

The bodice back which also has a cowl, drapey thing going on.  The bodice is now ready to have the skirts attached and then I will be needing to insert a concealed zip.  Unfortunately I live in a city which for some bizarre reason has a complete lack of concealed zips in all of the haberdashers.  This means an adventure further afield where I will end up buying armfuls of fabric, trims and pretty what-nots instead of just the zip. Yay!

Finished project: Red Victorian Corset

I have finally finished my Victorian corset. I irritatingly ran out of steel before it was barely half boned, there is nothing worse than running out of materials when you are in the mood to sew.

I completely love how it turned out.  After umming and ahhing over what colour bias binding to go with I thought white would really bring the red to life.

This is based on one of the simpler corsets from Jill Salen's book (Black and yellow flossed corset 1890-1900)  The panels are straight forward, no gussets etc, so it would make a good starter project for a beginnner. It's nice and comfy to wear.
















The corset as seen from a weird artistic angle.

In terms of improvement I need to tweak the pattern slightly, particularly around the hip, just to ensure total "snugification".

New project - Aphrodite Gown

I am embarking on another full length chiffon gown, this time inspired by the greek goddess Aphrodite.  It's going to have a red satin underdress with white chiffon draped over it, plus hand made fabric roses arranged around the empire line.
 















Bodice front.

So far I have got the bodice sewn and fitted.  The chiffon will be applied over the top and I will be going for a nice drapey, cowl effect across the front and back neckline.

The bodice back.

I will be draping the skirts separately from the bodice and bring the two together once all the chiffon is nicely sewn in place.

Finished project: German Austerity Corset

I have made another corset based on Jill Salen's book 'Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques'.  It's the German Austerity Corset, 1917.  Due to wartime shortages this one was designed to use as little fabric as possible, one layer, with the bones inserted into machine fell seams. However I decided to make it up my usual way with three layers.

The corset spread out flat. 

I used recycled curtain fabric, black satin bias binding and 5.5mm width spring steel for the boning.  This was the first time I have used such narrow steel and the jury is still out on it.  Although it was cheaper I think I prefer the shape and support of 13mm steel.

Corset from the front. 

It's an unusual shape,  it comes just up under the bust and comes down over the hips.

I'm not as in love with it as I thought I'd be but it was still fun to make :)