This is my fourth and final version of this corset and it's also my absolute favourite! I just love how well it turned out.
I'm not normally one for worrying too much about pattern matching when cutting out fabric but I took the time to align the stripes in an interesting and symmetrical way and it adds so much to the finished piece. The fabric is recycled from a pair of taupe and cream curtains. I used some rich brown bias binding that I had in my stash and the chains were from a cheap necklace I picked up at Primark specifically so i could take it apart.
A while ago I started work on another pair of 18th Century stays that ended up languishing in a corner because of bias binding issues but now I'm determined they will haunt me no longer....
Showing posts with label Jill Salen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jill Salen. Show all posts
Monday, 24 October 2011
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
Finished Project: Green and Gold Embroidered Underbust.
This is another variation on Jill Salens Victorian Underbust constructed from recycled green curtain fabrics lining and all!
After flatlining each panel I machine embroidered up the middle of each panel being careful to avoid sewing too close to the edges - leaving space for the seam allowance and boning channels. I then fully constructed this corset using cable ties for boning and black satin bias binding to finish the raw edges.
The very last touch to this corset was to sew on the lace applique flowers to each machine embroidered 'stalk'.
After flatlining each panel I machine embroidered up the middle of each panel being careful to avoid sewing too close to the edges - leaving space for the seam allowance and boning channels. I then fully constructed this corset using cable ties for boning and black satin bias binding to finish the raw edges.
The very last touch to this corset was to sew on the lace applique flowers to each machine embroidered 'stalk'.
Labels:
Black Swan,
corset,
Finished project,
gold,
Green,
Jill Salen,
machine embroidery,
underbust
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Finished project: Red Victorian Corset
I have finally finished my Victorian corset. I irritatingly ran out of steel before it was barely half boned, there is nothing worse than running out of materials when you are in the mood to sew.
I completely love how it turned out. After umming and ahhing over what colour bias binding to go with I thought white would really bring the red to life.
This is based on one of the simpler corsets from Jill Salen's book (Black and yellow flossed corset 1890-1900) The panels are straight forward, no gussets etc, so it would make a good starter project for a beginnner. It's nice and comfy to wear.

The corset as seen from a weird artistic angle.
In terms of improvement I need to tweak the pattern slightly, particularly around the hip, just to ensure total "snugification".
I completely love how it turned out. After umming and ahhing over what colour bias binding to go with I thought white would really bring the red to life.
This is based on one of the simpler corsets from Jill Salen's book (Black and yellow flossed corset 1890-1900) The panels are straight forward, no gussets etc, so it would make a good starter project for a beginnner. It's nice and comfy to wear.
The corset as seen from a weird artistic angle.
In terms of improvement I need to tweak the pattern slightly, particularly around the hip, just to ensure total "snugification".
Wednesday, 8 June 2011
Finished project: German Austerity Corset
I have made another corset based on Jill Salen's book 'Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques'. It's the German Austerity Corset, 1917. Due to wartime shortages this one was designed to use as little fabric as possible, one layer, with the bones inserted into machine fell seams. However I decided to make it up my usual way with three layers.
The corset spread out flat.
I used recycled curtain fabric, black satin bias binding and 5.5mm width spring steel for the boning. This was the first time I have used such narrow steel and the jury is still out on it. Although it was cheaper I think I prefer the shape and support of 13mm steel.
Corset from the front.
It's an unusual shape, it comes just up under the bust and comes down over the hips.
I'm not as in love with it as I thought I'd be but it was still fun to make :)
The corset spread out flat.
I used recycled curtain fabric, black satin bias binding and 5.5mm width spring steel for the boning. This was the first time I have used such narrow steel and the jury is still out on it. Although it was cheaper I think I prefer the shape and support of 13mm steel.
Corset from the front.
It's an unusual shape, it comes just up under the bust and comes down over the hips.
I'm not as in love with it as I thought I'd be but it was still fun to make :)
Labels:
corset,
corsetry,
Finished project,
gold,
Jill Salen,
steel
Saturday, 28 May 2011
Finished project: Underbust Corset.
Here is the finished corset - I'm really happy with it. Whilst making it I kept looking at it and thinking it was out of proportion but my fears were unfounded!
I scraped together all the leftover scraps of fabric to make the little bow. If there's anything I can't bear it's wasted fabric.

I scraped together all the leftover scraps of fabric to make the little bow. If there's anything I can't bear it's wasted fabric.
Saturday, 21 May 2011
New project - underbust corset.
What's the best thing to do if you run out of steel boning half way through making a corset? Answer: start another one of course!!!

It's a dainty little underbust corset from Jill Salen's book. I only had a narrow strip of this fabric, rescued from a remnant bin in a furnishing shop and it was just enough to make this corset. It took a bit of maneuvering to persuade all the pattern pieces to fit on mind you!
I need to buy a busk for the centre front but that's the only steel this corset requires. The original was whale boned so I used cable ties either side of each seam. It still surprises me how robust and effective cable ties are!
It's a dainty little underbust corset from Jill Salen's book. I only had a narrow strip of this fabric, rescued from a remnant bin in a furnishing shop and it was just enough to make this corset. It took a bit of maneuvering to persuade all the pattern pieces to fit on mind you!
I need to buy a busk for the centre front but that's the only steel this corset requires. The original was whale boned so I used cable ties either side of each seam. It still surprises me how robust and effective cable ties are!
Sunday, 15 May 2011
New project - red corset!
I have become corset obsessed!!! This one is based on one of the Victorian patterns in Jill Salens's book 'Corsets: Historical patterns and techniques'. The patterns in this book are easy to scale up as they are all drawn on grids.
This corset is made from three layers of fabric, you could use two though, as long as they were strong. Personally I prefer to use three, it just feels really sturdy and gives it extra structure. I had a scrap of rich red silk in my stash for the outer layer and quite a bit of gold satin left over from the Sirona gown for the lining. For the middle layer I just use whatever plain white-ish fabric I have lying around.

A photo of the busk in place.
The back panels with steel boning inserted either side of the seams.
This is how far I got before I ran out of steel! Argh!!!
This corset is made from three layers of fabric, you could use two though, as long as they were strong. Personally I prefer to use three, it just feels really sturdy and gives it extra structure. I had a scrap of rich red silk in my stash for the outer layer and quite a bit of gold satin left over from the Sirona gown for the lining. For the middle layer I just use whatever plain white-ish fabric I have lying around.
A photo of the busk in place.
The back panels with steel boning inserted either side of the seams.
This is how far I got before I ran out of steel! Argh!!!
Labels:
19th Century,
boning,
busk,
corset,
gold,
Jill Salen,
Red,
steel,
victorian
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